Summer 2017, Agios Theodoros. Iām at the Womenās Rural Association of Larnaca. Another gastronomic seminar is taking place, and Iām thrilledāas I always am when I get the chance to learn from people who preserve and celebrate Cyprusās culinary traditions. Right beside me sits the lovely pastry chef Paraskevi Loulli from Athienou, showing us how to make the famous Athienitic bread. āJust flour, salt, sourdough starter, and water,ā I hear her say. Her voice and the way she describes the recipe instantly take me back to my childhood. As a little girl, I used to go to the traditional bakery in Kofinou and help out with small tasks. Every now and then, Iād stand there, fascinated, watching the kneading and shaping of the loaves. I always wondered about the cuts they made around each loaf with a razor before baking. I later learned the reason: āso that the bread expands evenly while baking.ā Even today, whenever I visit Kofinou, I always stop by the traditional bakery to buy bread from our family friends. And if itās a busy hour, I gladly put on an apron and rush to help. Some habits never fade...

REFERENCES FROM CYPRUS GASTRONOMY ⢠The people of Athienou had a tradition of sourdough breads and were the first to professionally engage in the production and distribution of bread. Paraskevi Loulli told us that the loaves the Athienites took to Nicosia had to weigh exactly one 'oka' according to trade regulations. If their weight was less, they had to pay a fine. To this day, she prepares this size, the one-oka bread (1250gr). ⢠For centuries, bread has been the staple food of the inhabitants of Cyprus. In the past, there wasn't a day of the week when the neighborhoods didn't smell of freshly baked bread. Kneading was a whole ritual. Usually, 4-5 households shared the ingredients and the skill and made bread for a whole week. The women gathered in one of the housesāthe one with the wood-fired ovenāand the kneading started the previous evening and finished before noon the next day.