AFELIA (CYPRIOT PORK IN WINE)

1988, Kofinou. I sit in our kitchen watching my mother cook Afelia. I see the pork bacon go into the pot with plenty of olive oil and sizzle. She removes the excess oil and pours in some of the red wine my father brought from Troodos. Then she adds a little water for the meat to cook and instructs me to crush the dried coriander. She takes a good pinch of coriander between her fingers and adds it to the pot. She adds salt and then expertly mixes the Afelia before serving it with bulgur wheat…