Kavourmas (Cypriot Slow-Cooked Meat)

Name: Kavourmas (Cypriot Slow-Cooked Meat)
Cuisine: Greek
Ingredients: 1 kilo of goat/lamb (katsikaki), shoulder cut into medium pieces; 1 ½ cups (375ml) dry red wine; 3 medium potatoes (750g) cut in half or into 4 pieces if large; 1 ½ cups (345ml) sunflower oil; 2 well-filled tablespoons (70g) tomato paste; 1 cinnamon stick; 2 bay leaves; 1 teaspoon (2g) ground allspice (cumin); ½ level teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; 1 ½ teaspoons (12g) salt; 2 ½ cups (625ml) lukewarm water

1999, Agios Georgios Sylikou. Aunt Andriana (my father's sister) arrives with her steaming kavourmas in the pot, and the whole yard smells wonderful. We sit under the big walnut tree at a round table—a creation of Uncle Panayiotis—that artfully embraces the tree trunk. Our aunt serves us the goat/lamb and potatoes that melt in your mouth, and we fight over who gets to dip their bread in the pot...

INGREDIENTS

• 1 kilo of goat/lamb (katsikaki), shoulder cut into medium pieces
• 1 ½ cups (375ml) dry red wine
• 3 medium potatoes (750g) cut in half or into 4 pieces if large
• 1 ½ cups (345ml) sunflower oil
• 2 well-filled tablespoons (70g) tomato paste
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 teaspoon (2g) ground allspice (cumin)
• ½ level teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 ½ teaspoons (12g) salt
• 2 ½ cups (625ml) lukewarm water

METHOD

1. Two days beforehand, place the meat in a bowl and pour the wine over it. Cover it with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator. Stir occasionally so it marinates evenly.
2. On the day you plan to cook it, take the meat out of the wine and drain it well. Place the potatoes in the wine for about 40 minutes to 1 hour. Strain them, setting the wine aside. Pour the oil into a large pot and fry the potatoes until nicely browned, about 15 minutes. Remove the potatoes and place them in a colander. Put the meat into the pot and sauté until well browned on all sides, about 25 - 30 minutes.
3. Remove the excess oil from the pot—leaving just a little—and deglaze the dish with the wine that marinated the meat. Boil until the alcohol evaporates. Add the tomato paste and rub it against the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to release its aromas. Pour the water into the dish, and when it starts to boil, add the cinnamon stick and bay leaves.
4. Lower the heat, cover the pot, and simmer for 1 hour. Stir occasionally. After 1 hour, open the pot and add the potatoes. Sprinkle with the allspice, pepper, and salt. Pour in the remaining water and gently shake the pot to mix the food without crushing the potatoes.
5. Simmer for another 20 minutes with the pot covered. Then, uncover, shake the pot again, and boil for another 10 minutes until the sauce thickens nicely.