Athienou Bread
Summer 2017, Agios Theodoros. I’m at the Women’s Rural Association of Larnaca. Another gastronomic seminar is taking place, and I’m thrilled—as I always am when I get the chance to learn from people who preserve and celebrate Cyprus’s culinary traditions. Right beside me sits the lovely pastry chef Paraskevi Loulli from Athienou, showing us how to make the famous Athienitic bread. “Just flour, salt, sourdough starter, and water,” I hear her say. Her voice and the way she describes the recipe instantly take me back to my childhood. As a little girl, I used to go to the traditional bakery in Kofinou and help out with small tasks. Every now and then, I’d stand there, fascinated, watching the kneading and shaping of the loaves. I always wondered about the cuts they made around each loaf with a razor before baking. I later learned the reason: “so that the bread expands evenly while baking.” Even today, whenever I visit Kofinou, I always stop by the traditional bakery to buy bread from our family friends. And if it’s a busy hour, I gladly put on an apron and rush to help. Some habits never fade...




